Nestled by the pre-Andean Sierras (mountain range), the immeasurable beauty of the landscape and quaint little villages make Northern Argentina my favorite part of the country. Heading further north from the colonial city of Salta, we found ourselves entering a different world – from modern cities to wild nature and cobblestoned towns lined with bright Andean colors.  

Paseo a las Nubes

Following the route of the famous ‘tren a las nubes’, our guide Pablo brought us through the meandering paths of the Sierra Castille, past streams, rolling mountains and snow-capped peaks. The train is well-known as the highest altitude train route in the world. The landscape consisted of steep peaks dotted with cactus, ruins of ancient civilizations and llamas grazing on the endless fields.

As we climbed to altitudes as high as 4200m, we chewed on coca leaves (the plant from which cocaine is extracted from) to prevent altitude sickness, which can cause quite severe headache and short of breathe. Cruising through breathtaking views and climbing up peaks, it was definitely one of the best ways to see Argentina’s nature.

San Antonio a los Cobres

The ‘tren a las nubes’ route ends at this mining town where copper (‘cobre’ in Spanish) is found abundantly. We sought refuge from the cold at a restaurant where we tried llama meat for the first time. The indigenous animal is not only reared for their wool but also for their tender meat.

Tucking into a dish of hot steaming locro (soup of vegetables and meat, typically consumed in the Andes), and then a bife de llama (llama steak), there was no better way to indulge in some Andean flavors.

Climbing into the Northern Argentinean peaks, we noticed the difference in not only the lifestyle of the people, but also in their gastronomic habits. Due to the abundance of llamas in the wild, llama meat is popular and cooked in several ways – from grilled steak, stew to breaded and deep-fried.

Coca tea was served after lunch to provide some digestion and preventive measure for altitude sickness.

Purmamarca

Further north in the Jujuy province is the tranquil mountainous town of Purmamarca, famed for the ‘Sierra de los siete colores’ (Mountain of 7 colors). Naturally formed by layers of different minerals (copper, iron etc), the mountains display beautiful strands of colors, as though God had decided to paint it this way. Staying overnight at our country-style hut, we awoke to the fresh mountain air and a majestic view of the sierra right at our doorstep.

The main plaza of the Purmamarca is littered with artisan shops and stalls that are decorated with brightly colored llama carpets and jumpers. Unlike other towns, Purmamarca is distinct with its boutique artisan shops that are modern yet thick with local flavors.

Andean restaurants guarantee authentic flavors as typical Northern Argentinean dishes such as Cazuela de llama (llama stew) and Patatas criollas con queso de cabra (boiled potatoes with goat cheese) are top on the menu. Penas are typical folklore dance halls that offer local gaucho music composing of windpipes and charango (small Andean guitar). We were mesmerized by the folklore music at the Pena de Claudia Vilte.

Humahuaca

As we rode along the Quebrada de Humahuaca (Humahuaca Gorge), multi-hued rocky mountains and sturdy tall cacti flanked both sides of the road. The landscape transitioned slowly from sand-brown rough edges to volcanic grey slopes. At the end of the gorge, we found ourselves in an even more alluring town where cobbled stone paths and white architecture create a soothing foreground for the intimidating mountains behind.  

Easily the best meal we had in Argentina, el Portillo had an amazing display of Northern Argentinean Andean dishes. Our crepe de quinoa con queso de cabra (crepe of beans and melted goat cheese) was rich, thick and steaming with local taste. Another unique dish I had was the Lomo Humahuaqueno al Diablo (beef steak with local spicy sauce), with sassy capsicum and onions sprinkled over a thick wad of beef steak. Best part of it all – live music with spanish guitar creating a soothing ambience.

With locals dressed in authentic Andean ponchos and bright llama skirts, threading the alleys of Humahuaca, I found myself dreamily lost in this mountain daze, totally enchanted by their culture and traditions.

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