The rough seas and harsh conditions resembled the harsh conditions of Antarctica that I had encountered on my expedition trip last year. It comes as no surprise though, as this – the Tasman Peninsula - is one of the closest landmasses to Antarctica. Storms from Antarctica travel almost 2000 km to get here, and this is often the first piece of land they encounter in this direction. Naturally, the sea conditions can pose as a challenge even for the toughest seafarer.

Cruising off the southern coast of Tasmania, we were meandering along the stretch of the coastline between Port Arthur and Eaglehawk Neck (that forms part of the Tasman National Park) to get to the famous Tasman Island, a great landmark of the Southern Ocean – its slender white lighthouse still a beacon for seafarers entering Storm Bay. This is an area famed for its dramatic and rugged beauty – the sheer sea cliffs here rising up to 300m above the sea, resulting in beautifully sculptured rock formations and magnificent blow holes.

But we were not here just to admire the beauty of the landscape – we were here to see the rich wildlife that inhabit this area. The Continental Shelf runs close to Tasman Island and an upwelling of nutrient from the ocean’s depths creates a smorgasbord for marine animals, from plankton and albatross to sharks, dolphins and southern right whales. Tasman Island didn’t fail us – we floated right by migrating humpback whales, cruised right by fur seal haul-outs, watched albatrosses and eagles wheeling in the sky. There was a feeding frenzy of diving gannets on the water surface and a surprising number of whales breaching all around us. We were awestruck by the amount of wild animals we saw that day – and the adventure that came along.

Just after leaving Port Arthur, we came across this beautiful rock formation

The dolerite rock towers feature interesting columnar characteristics

A pair of fur seals fight it out

A lonesome fur seal look out to sea

We managed to capture the fluke of a whale just before it dove in

There’s so much bird life in the area

A giant albatross spreads its wings

The sharp peaks of islands off the Tasman Peninsula

Diving gannets fighting for food on the water surface

 Riding the rough waves

About the Tour

Our three-hour Tasman Island eco-cruise was organized by Pennicott Wilderness Journeys, a very successful operator started by local fisherman Robert Pennicott. The Pennicott family are genuinely dedicated to sharing their business success with the local community and operating in a sustainable manner.

25% of the business profits are donated to important local, national and international conservation, community fundraising and humanitarian projects. In 2007, Robert Pennicott established the Tasmanian Coast Conservation Fund toward which he has raised $100,000. This has been used on Tasmanian coastal conservation projects, the first of which was completed in June 2010 on Tasman Island. The outcome was the removal of a feral species that was killing over 50,000 breeding seabirds each year.

Disclaimer: Our trip was made possible by Tourism Tasmania, but all opinions expressed above are our own.

The post Cruising off the Southern Tip of Australia: Tasman Island appeared first on Wild Junket.

Just 12 km (7.5 miles) away from the Adelaide city center, the Cleland Conservation Park is a beautiful patchwork of natural bushland poised on the very top of Adelaide Hills. Here, the mountain air is fresh, grasslands sprawl across the area and Eucalyptus trees are peppered all over the hill slopes. It’s the perfect home South Australia’s native animals. Kangaroos jump and hop freely, emus saunter leisurely on their own turf, while Tasmanian devils screech and brawl into the darkness. Even rare and endangered species such as the yellow-footed rock wallabies and brush-tailed bettongs scamper and scuttle in freedom. There are no large fences nor giant enclosures – so you really get the chance to mingle and interact with these adorable creatures. I even got to hug a koala bear – it was an experience unlike no other.

For a look at our experience at Cleland, here are some photos that Alberto took. Hope they give you an idea of how close you can get to these animals.

The adorable koala bear posing naturally

A koala bear in the trees of Cleland

A wallaby sniffing for food

A rock wallaby hiding in the bush

One of my favorite animals in Cleland: the echidna, an adorable spiny ant eater

The emu is a very curious creature, pecking at our camera cheekily

A wallaby lounges on the grassland

A kangaroo and her joey relax side by side

The koala bear that I got to know

We finally got the chance to see a wombat in reality after hearing all about it

Alberto reaches out to feed a wallaby

A kangaroo hungrily devours food from my hand

That’s me and my adorable koala!

Disclaimer: Special thanks to Tourism South Australia for the tips and advice! This visit was funded by ourselves, though our trip there was partially sponsored by Tourism South Australia. All opinions expressed above are our own.

The post Koalas, Emus and Kangaroos: South Australia’s Wildlife appeared first on Wild Junket.

Dawn had come and go. Rising at 5am was well worth it: the sunrise over Uluru and Kata Tjuta proved to be spectacular. After seeing Kata Tjuta from atop the sand dunes, it was now time to see it up close and learn about the many stories behind it.

Our young and energetic guide Nick claimed this to be his favorite part of the trip, “At Uluru, we can only walk around its base and admire it from below. But here at Kata Tjuta, we get to walk in and around the site, and immerse deep within it.” He said that once, there was an Australian woman in his group who cried the whole time they were hiking in Kata Tjuta – because it was the most beautiful place she’d ever seen.

Domes of the Olgas

We were eager to see Kata Tjuta’s beauty for ourselves and it wasn’t long before we were hiking along the Valley of the Winds route that snaked into and around the domes of Kata Tjuta. A cluster of large dome rock formations, Kata Tjuta is also known as the Olgas (because of the highest point Mount Olga). But don’t let this name fool you – the 36 domes that make up Kata Tjuta are assembled in such a unique and artistic way. From the base, we could see each dome rock pointing in a different direction, soaring into the sky like heads of giants. Perhaps that’s why the local Anangu named the site Kata Tjuta, meaning  ‘many heads’ in the Pitjantjajara language.

A cluster of large dome rock formations, Kata Tjuta is also known as the Olgas. But don’t let this name fool you – the 36 domes that make up Kata Tjuta are assembled in such a unique and artistic way.

“Kata Tjuta is a very sacred spot, only suitable for initiated men.” From our hike in Uluru, we knew this whole national park was a sacred area for the local Anangu who have been lived here for approximately 20,000 years. But here in Kata Tjuta, most of  the sensitive spots are away from the walking trail.

“There are many Pitjantjatjara dreaming legends associated with this place. A number of legends surround the great snake king Wanambi who is said to live on the summit of Mount Olga and only comes down during the dry season.” Tell us some of these legends, I urged Nick. “Unfortunately, the majority of mythology surrounding the site is not disclosed to outsiders.”

“There are many Pitjantjatjara dreaming legends associated with this place. A number of legends surround the great snake king Wanambi who is said to live on the summit of Mount Olga and only comes down during the dry season.”

Ancient Rocks of History

As we continued to make our way deeper into the dome rocks, we found ourselves looking at the highest point of Kata Tjuta – Mount Olga, rising 1,066 m (3,497 ft) above sea level. It’s hard to imagine all these rocks date back to 500 million years, when they were all part of the Mount Currie Conglomerate.

Back in those days, these mountains were higher than the Himalayas but when Earth’s tectonic plates started separating, these mountains were lifted. Uluru was formed when part of the mountain got shifted 180 degrees, therefore resulting in a monolith; while Kata Tjuta was raised in various directions, causing the mound to be shattered into many domes.

On the surface of these sedimentary rocks, we could see striations, a result of different types of rocks mashed together. We also saw black stains on these rocks, a result of rainwater tricking down the rocks’ surface. Traipsing down these rocks, we found ourselves passing bearded dragons and galahs along the way – wildlife often found in the Central Australian desert.

By this time, the temperature was reaching 38 degrees Celsius, and the sun was blazing. We had started our hike at 7am so that we could walk in the morning temperatures but even though it’s hardly past 9am, we were soaked in sweat and finding it hard to cope with the weather. The trail was already closed for hikers and we had to finish our hike before 11am otherwise the extreme temperature might become a danger.

Soon we were climbing up steps that were naturally carved into the rock surface, towards the Karingana lookout point that led us way up towards the top of the valley. I struggled to keep up with the pace, the sun’s rays shining ferociously upon me, making it harder than before to continue. By the time we got to to the lookout point, we were drenched in sweat but thrilled to see a stunning panorama before us. The entire basin stretched out beneath us, with Uluru in the far distance. We sat and drank in the views, treating ourselves to some trail mix and snacks while taking some respite under the shade.

Winding Down At Camp

The walk back down to our starting point was easier than before as we skipped and hopped down to the valley, past creek beds, and over dome rocks. That day, we walked a total of 7.4km in three and a half hours, a great feat considering the extreme weather.

In the evening, we drove over to Kings Creek Station, a cattle ranch that had been featured in the ‘Australian Story’, a TV series about how an Australian couple had bought the land and and made it their mission to help educate the local Aborigines. It’s a great success story and we were glad to have the opportunity to be part of this brilliant project.

Before dinner, we set off to explore the sparse forest that surrounded our campsite. According to Nick, there were wild camels and dingos in the area – but all we found were massive mounds of black ants. As the sun set, we began piling out the wooden branches that we’d picked up along the way, and started a fire. We were blessed with a great cook as our guide, and as Nick whipped up stir-fried chicken for dinner, we all helped out while chatting and having a great time in the kitchen shack. For dessert, he prepared his specialty dish – delicious bush bread that tasted like fragrant scones.

That night, we slept like babies, tucked comfortably under our swags to a view of the star-lit skies before us.

TO BE CONTINUED…

Camping in Australia’s Red Center – Part III: Conquering Kings Canyon

Disclaimer: Thanks to Tourism Northern Territory and Wayoutback Desert Safaris for making this trip possible! While the trip was sponsored, all opinions expresses above are our own.

The post Camping in Australia’s Red Center – Part II: Exploring Kata Tjuta appeared first on Wild Junket.

Dawn had yet to arrive, but the sounds of the desert had awoken me. I opened my eyes to the sounds of birds chirping and dingoes howling in the distance. A sky full of stars sprawled before me, the Milky Way running its course overhead. I listened to the desert orchestra and smiled to myself, enjoying this rare moment of solitude to myself. It was a privilege to be here in Uluru – Kata Tjuta National Park, but even more so was the opportunity to camp out in this quiet and remote spot, and awaking to such a beautiful surrounding.

It was a beginning of a new day and the start of an action-packed day in Uluru. After a quick breakfast over the campfire, we packed up our swags, sleeping bags, and belongings and drove up a sand dune to watch the sun rise over Uluru and Katja Tjuta.

We didn’t have to wait for long:  Blinding rays of orange flashed across the vast desert like a laser light show. What was grey and black in the dawn light instantly came alive. The brooding Uluru was now painted in burgundy red, rising from a lime green plain of spinifex grass with patches of red sand in between. The stack of rock mountains at Kata Tjuta was illuminated in a shade of rose red, with striated lines of black and white running across their flaky surface. The fascinating transformation from night to day took place in a sheer matter of minutes – but it was a moment I would remember for life.

What was grey and black in the dawn light instantly came alive. The brooding Uluru was now painted in burgundy red, rising from a lime green plain of spinifex grass with patches of red sand in between.

Aboriginal Culture in the Outback

We were on a camping safari with Wayoutback Desert Safaris, spending three days in the national park camping, hiking, and exploring the area. The three main sites in the national park are Uluru, Kata Tjuta and Kings Canyon – all of which are considered sacred to the Anangu, the Aboriginal people of the Red Center. Having lived here for a approximately 20,000 years, the Anangu have a particularly close relationship with their land – surviving entirely on what the bush provides for food, education and spiritual development. Today, the traditional landowners continue to live here, protecting and managing the World Heritage Site.

The day before, we had started our trip from Alice Springs, a gateway town in the Outback. Led by our young and feisty guide Nick, we drove almost 335km (208 miles) through vast fields of red sand and green spinifex along with 16 other campers on board a massive 4WD truck. The Stuarts Highway, that connects the top end of Australia all the way to the southern edge, brought us right into the heart of the Red Center. Along the way, we saw falcons flying overhead and giant lizards crossing the road. Sometimes we drove for miles without seeing anyone else in sight – that was the sign that we were heading further away from civilization and closer towards the our destination.

 Having lived here for a approximately 20,000 years, the Anangu have a particularly close relationship with their land – surviving entirely on what the bush provides for food, education and spiritual development.

Our first stop was the Uluru Cultural Centre, where we hungrily devoured interesting information about the area’s cultural heritage and tradition. Here, we learnt about the Anangu, one of the 500 different Aboriginal tribes that live all over Australia. They speak mainly Pitjantjatjara (pronounced as pigeon-jarrah) and Yankunytjatjara (pronounced as young-kun-jarrah), each of which only boast 4,000 speakers.

Having been named Ayers Rock by the Europeans who arrived later, Uluru is now once again known by its Aboriginal name. When I asked Nick about the meaning of Uluru and how it came about, he explained, “The word Uluru has no specific meaning in Pitjantjatjara, it’s merely the name of a place, although the place itself holds very special meaning for the Anangu.”

Dreaming and Songlines

So why is Uluru such a sacred spot for the Anangu?

When we arrived at the base of Uluru, Nick pointed at the monolithic rock mountain rising above the sand before us and said in an almost poetic fashion, “Look at it. How many monoliths like this do you see in the world?” Spotting big blond dreadlocks, Nick looked like a new-age hippie but he had an endless thirst for Aboriginal knowledge and he was as curious and intrigued by his own country as we were.

We stood staring at the majestic Uluru, thought for a moment and nodded in unison. In the morning sun, Uluru spotted a perfect dome-shaped silhouette. There was nothing surrounding it, except for flat desert plains that ran for miles. It was as though God had purposefully molded it into what it is today – a flawless mound of red sandstone, standing lonesome and majestic in the middle of the desert. There really isn’t any monolith as big and perfectly sculpted as Uluru anywhere else.

Because Uluru is considered sacred, this spot often appeared in Aboriginal Tjukurpa (pronounced ‘chook-orr-pa’) stories. Tjukurpa has many deep, complex meanings – even the Aboriginals themselves find it a concept hard to explain. In general, Tjukurpa refers to the creation period when ancestral beings created the world. From this came their religious heritage, explaining their existence and guiding their daily life. Like religions anywhere in the world, Tjukurpa provides answers to important questions, the rules for behavior and for living together.

Many of the rock paintings on Uluru show scenes from Aboriginal dreaming, which explain how the rock was created and how some cracks came about on Uluru. Scientifically speaking, the cracks and flakes on Uluru are formed by the extreme cooling of water beneath the rock layer (which freezes at night and then expands in the day, which causes the cracking). But the Anangu think otherwise and they’ve got plenty of stories to show their side of it.

Because Uluru is considered sacred, this spot often appeared in Aboriginal Tjukurpa stories. Tjukurpa has many deep, complex meanings – even the Aboriginals themselves find it a concept hard to explain.

The rocks told many stories – those of the Anangu and of the Europeans. We came upon drawings of camels on the walls. Nick explained that these paintings were done during the 1850s when Europeans arrived with camels. The first European who came was Ernest Giles, who first sighted Uluru in 1872 and climbed the monolith with the help of an Afghan camel driver. This spot became the classroom for the Anangu children, who all came here to learn about the dreaming stories.

Meandering further along the base of Uluru, Nick picked out plants like the bush fig and wattle (Australia’s national flower), which fed the Anangu for centuries. Even now, it is still part of the Aboriginal culinary tradition, which we would learn about later during a Mbauta dinner with an Aboriginal chef. Continuing on our walk, we found a part of the rock formation that resembled a wave. Nick told us this was the kitchen for the Anangu. There was a grinding area where they used to ground wattle seeds and drain blood from kangaroos. They usually barbecued the kangaroos for a short while and ate them almost raw as the meat would have more moisture in them.

By this time, the sun was blazing even though it was only 11am. Temperatures at Uluru can rise up to 42 degrees Celsius and dip to a low of 5 at night. To escape the extreme heat of Uluru, we headed back to the camp. Nick grilled some thick juicy Australian sausages and we all gathered for a quick lunch, before heading back to the base of Uluru for another evening walk. There are several hiking routes along the base and it takes several days to walk all of them.

Uluru’s Modern Day Problems

When tourism in Uluru started in the 1940s, the white Europeans drove the Aboriginals out as they didn’t want them in the area when tourists were taking photos. The Anangu suffered in silence, left their sacred land, and retreated deeper into the desert. Fortunately in the 1970s, the land was eventually returned to the Anangu.

They now have a shared management program with the government authorities, which means both parties maintain the site, protect it and make any Uluru-related decisions together. On the board of authorities, half of the members are Aboriginals and the other half are white Australian government officials. The board ensures that visitors to the site adhere to both Aboriginal laws and Australian rules.

Photography of sacred sites is not allowed and no other animals are allowed to be brought into the park. Climbing Uluru is strongly discouraged as it is considered disrespectful to the Aboriginals; but it is not completely banned, so some people still attempt the climb. Each year around 40 climbers die, because of the danger involved (some slip and fall, others suffer from the heat). Some of these climbers hike and camp on the top, which often destroys the environment considering how fragile Uluru is. I personally think that as travelers, we should always respect the locals, regardless of where we are in the world and as such, I would never attempt the climb.

Continuing further along the trail, we came across an area with burnt vegetation. Nick explained that the vegetation was just recently burnt by a young Aboriginal boy. The Aborigines like to burn vegetation so that new plants can grow and that would give them more food. This has become quite a serious problem in Australia, and we’ve seen it in other parts of the country as well. Thankfully, Nick said that the burning in Uluru is controlled now.

Right before ending our walk, someone in the group pointed out to a giant lizard standing on a rock surface. It was a perentie, Australia’s largest reptile. We watched in awe, amazed to find a creature of this size running wild in the desert. It stood staring at us for a long time, before sneaking off into the seams of the rock.

Sunset at Uluru

By the time we finished our walk, it was the perfect time to catch the sun set over Uluru. We drove out to a nearby lookout point, but sadly we were not the only ones there – a whole row of tourist buses and campervans had already gathered here to watch the spectacle.

“When sun is low, the sky becomes red because of the infrared rays that penetrate through the atmosphere. And when that happens, Uluru will become red too.” Nick shared with us.

Along with probably hundreds of other tourists, we stood with our cameras ready, anticipation and tension piercing the air. Soon enough, the color of the rock changed quickly from sandy brown to orange and eventually bright red. As Nick said, Uluru was now shrouded in a shade of vermillion red, glowing like a tungsten light bulb against a clear cloudless sky. Everyone went silent, watching the phenomenon in awe.

As the magical moment passed us, Nick popped open a bottle of champagne and we clinked glasses in celebration of the moment. Platters of cheese and crackers were served and everyone was in high spirits; Nick was spoiling us terribly. Back at the campsite, night fell and we were quick to get started on cooking. The guys helped Nick start the fire while some of us girls started chopping, dicing and washing. It was plenty of fun getting to know our group of travelers from different corners of the world – made up of a Norwegian couple, an outgoing Canadian brother and sister team, an American girl traveling solo around Australia for a year, and two young German boys who had just graduated from college.

That night, we sat by the campfire and tucked into a hearty meal of pasta bolognaise and chocolate cake, chatting and laughing as Nick told us campfire stories. Under the starry skies, we tucked into our sleeping bags and swags and dozed off – dreaming about what would await us the next day.

TO BE CONTINUED…. 

Camping in the Red Center Part II: Exploring Kata Tjuta

Additional Info:

The weather conditions in Uluru can be very extreme, with blazing heat in the day and cool desert temperature at night. We visited in October and the heat was really extreme. I fell sick after a day under the sun. Be sure to bring lots of water and hydration salt with you and wear layers for the extreme weather. Hiking at the base of Uluru is rather easy and straightforward, the longest hike we did at Uluru was three-hour long but it was a flat path. If you’re hiking on your own, be sure to time your walks with the coolest time of the day (either before 8am or after 5pm).

Disclaimer: Thanks to Tourism Northern Territory and Wayoutback Desert Safaris for making this trip possible! While the trip was sponsored, all opinions expresses above are our own.

The post Camping in the Red Center – Part I: Uluru and its Aboriginal Roots appeared first on Wild Junket.

Sprawled across the base of the MacDonnell Ranges in Central Australia, the desert park is a beautifully sculpted patchwork of sand country where kangaroos roam, birds fly overhead, and endangered bilby burrow underground. There’s hardly any fence around – it’s almost like an open-air playground where all of the area’s wildlife live freely.

Using a combination of endemic plants, animals and Aboriginal culture, the park introduces visitors like us to the desert environment. The desert is often thought of as vast and barren – but unknown to many, it’s full of life – and this desert park definitely proves that point. Let’s take a look at the different aspects of the park:

Wildlife

During our visit, the park’s guides highly recommended the bird show – where we got to see and interact with the resident birds like the beautiful barn owl, galah (or rose-breasted cockatoo), black kite eagle and crested pigeon. The park’s young rangers were fun and full of live, providing tons of interesting information about these feathered creatures. We met one of them, a young zoologist from Queensland who had left the sunny tropical climate to brave the harsh desert conditions because of her love for these animals. She had initially come as a volunteer but eventually fell in love with the owls and galahs.

Another corner we really enjoyed was the nocturnal house where we got a glimpse of several rare and intriguing creatures like the bandicoot and the greater bilby. The greater bilby is an endangered creature, its population having been reduced by fire and foxes, while the bandicoot is a very vulnerable specie and now found only in very few parts of Australia. The reptile section of the house was rather impressive as well, with displays of thorny devil and bearded dragons. As these nocturnal creatures do not thrive under bright light, the whole house was dim and packed with mystery.

Environment

The park is divided into three separate walk-through desert habitats accessed through a 1.6-kilometer trail: Desert Rivers, Sand Country, and Woodland. In the desert river area, we walked through dry river beds where red gums and reeds thrive and mingled with cockatoos and frogs (we could literally walk inside the vegetation area). The sand country showed us the natural conditions of the sandy desert including many salt plans and gypsum. The woodland was our favorite habitat where kangaroos, wallabies and emus scampered around in their own environment. We would hang out with them and just sit nearby with no interference.

Aboriginal Culture

The park is also of significant cultural importance to the local Arrernte people and includes parts of the Akngwelye Artnwere and Yeperenye Altyerre (wild dog and caterpillar dreaming stories). The Arrernte is just one of the 500 Aboriginal tribes that live in Australia and there are over 500 Aboriginal languages spoken throughout the country (unknown to many, the Aborigines are not just one tribe). Much of the work of the park is managed by the park’s traditional landowners who are now known as the traditional custodians of the park.

We met Alice Furber, one of the park’s Arrernte custodians and guides. She’s passionate about her own tribe and is determined to educate the public about their culture and traditions. First she talked about the Arrernte’s skin system – something that ensured their continued existence. “We have a skin system that ensures our bloodline stays pure. The Arrernte only marry within the tribe.” Alice explained. The skin system give them a deep sense of belonging.

Alice then showed us how the Arrernte survive on the desert environment for food. Even today, most people in the tribe spend almost 80% of their time hunting for food – both men and women alike – so this is a very important part of their culture. “There’s a supermarket out there,” said Eric, a fellow Arrernte guide, pointing to the bush beyond. He showed us an array of plants and fruit that they usually collect from the surroundings:  bush coconut, quandong, bush cucumber, plums, and figs – which we would try later over a bush dinner prepared by an Aboriginal chef.

“People wonder what it is that is so special here and it is because everything comes here. We connect to it, we’re a part of it. Our Country is our home, and we know all the sites and all the features, our rocks, our trees, our hills. We come up with our Country. We come up with it and feel it so strongly.”

- Doris Kngwarraye Stuart, Alice Springs Custodian

Indeed, the Arrernte have a special connection with their land – and it’s easily seen here through the eyes of Alice and Eric. Perhaps it’s because I personally miss having a sense of belonging that but I deeply admire the Aborigines for the strong connection they have with their home.

Additional Info:

Entrance fee for the Alice Springs Desert Park is AU$25 per person. It’s opened from 7.30am to 6pm daily. The Desert Park is approximately a 10 minute journey from the centre of Alice Springs. The Park is accessible by motor vehicle, touring coaches or Desert Park Transfers.

For more information, visit the website: http://www.alicespringsdesertpark.com.au.

Disclaimer: Thanks to Tourism Northern Territory and the Alice Springs Desert Park for making this trip possible! While the trip was sponsored, all opinions expresses above are our own.

The post Digging Beneath the Surface: Getting to Know the Central Australian Desert appeared first on Wild Junket.

They are the Tasmanian devils, aptly named by the early European settlers for their voracious behavior. The Aboriginals called them “tarrabah”, the nasty one, and because of their secretive and elusive personality, they’ve gained quite a reputation for themselves as satanic creatures.

But are they really as demonic as they appear to be? We headed to the Tasmanian Devil Sanctuary at Cradle Mountain to find out.

Save the Devils

Located right next to the Cradle Mountain National Park, Devils@Cradle is a Tasmanian conservation facility that participates in projects set up to protect this vulnerable species, and manages a Visitor Center is opened to the public. By offering a close up encounter with the Tasmanian devils, the facility believes that it can help educate the public which in turn contributes to conservation work.

It was pitch black by the time we arrived for our night feeding tour – but the devils were more active than ever. These nocturnal species were growling and barking, running in circles from one end of their den to another. There were almost a dozen of them, all scattered around the area, looking both anxious and excited as if they were waiting for a big feast. Once in awhile, a group of them would break into a big fight and loud cat-like screeches echoed through the facility.

Our guide saw the commotion and took the opportunity to explain, “As you can see, the devils love to fight. That’s a big issue as they’re passing cancer from one devil to another through tissue transplant.”

In the 1990s, the Tasmanian devil population was so low that they were thought to be going extinct within the next decade. The main cause of their decline was the devil facial tumor disease (DFTD), a debilitating cancer that’s killing off all the devils on the island. With the development of tumors around the jaws and head of the animal, infected devils usually die within 3-5 months. The biggest issue is that the cancer is contagious and easily passed from one animal to another.

Short of a cure, scientists are removing the sick animals and quarantining healthy devils in case the wild population dies out.There are now over 22 conservation centers all over Australia that are working on a nation-wide captive breeding program to ensure there is an ‘insurance population’ of around 500-600. Devils@Cradle forms part of this program. As a trained zoologist, our guide is passionate about conserving the devil.

“These animals are really quite charismatic when you get to know them better,” she shared. Soon we learnt what she meant.

The Devil’s Charm

With a baby devil wrapped around her chest, she returned with a big smile. “Meet Sandra.” We watched in amazement as the infant hugged her almost like a koala hugging a tree. We even got the chance to pat her and run our hands through her dry black fur. Sandra was nothing like the ferocious devil I’d imagined.

Having been rescued as a baby, Sandra is more docile than the others and has grown accustomed to being handled by the keepers. Sandra is part of the center’s orphan rehabilitation program – They help raise and nourish the joey devils, before reintroducing them back into the wild.

It was soon feeding time. Armed with a big bucket of blood-red kangaroo meat, we first followed our guide to feed the Eastern quoll and the spotted-tail quoll – both gentle creatures quietly nibbled away at their food silently. But once we go to the devil’s den, the noise level shot through the ceiling. The dozen or so devils hissed and growled, fighting one another for a bigger share of food. Even the brothers, that our guide pointed out, were not willing to feed together.

“They’re messy and bad-tempered,” said our guide passionately, “but they’re also very special in their own way.”

Disclaimer: Our trip was made possible by Tourism Tasmania, but all opinions expressed above are our own

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Spreading all the way from the Great Western Tiers in the north to Derwent Bridge in the south, the national park covers a massive area of 168,000 hectares. Although its highest peak is Mount Ossa at 1617m high, it is the 1,545 meter-high Cradle Mountain that steals the show.  The area around the mountain has a large number of day walks, as well as being one terminus of the 80.5km Overland Track with Lake St Clair, Australia’s deepest lake, at the other end.

Apart from the Tasmanian Devil, Cradle Mountain was what drew us to Tasmania. On a recent trip, we spent a few days hiking out in the national park, exploring its pristine lakes and wild moorlands.  From our base at the charming Peppers Cradle Mountain Lodge, we weaved our way through wet and dark temperate forests, jumping over moss-filled logs, meandering past the edges of dank gorges, and admiring gushing waterfalls. The landscape was moody and melodramatic yet hauntingly beautiful, set in the right mood by the trickling rain.

While we didn’t have a chance to traverse the Overland Track, we did sample Cradle Mountain’s beauty on a series of day walks. Here’s a look at the four walks we did in the national park:

1. Marion’s Lookout

We started the scenic route to Marion’s Lookout from the Dove Lake carpark and it was approximately a 2.5-hour walk return. There is a shorter route but it goes straight up a steep side of the mountain. We went the long way and it brought us up steep rock boulders, winding up and down slopes that overlooked Lake Lilla and Wombat Pool. But the view was well worth it: Marion’s Lookout is poised on the edge of a glacier-carved plateau, opening up to spectacular views of the surrounding mountain peaks and mirrored lakes.

• Duration: 2 – 2.5 hours return (3km one way)
• Grade: Reasonable easy; difficult last section
• Starts:  At Dove Lake carpark

2. Dove Lake Circuit

 This is a 6km track that winds its way around Dove Lake and beneath the towering spires of Cradle Mountain. It’s one of the most popular walks in the national park, though most people just walk part of it, including us. We started from Dove Lake carpark as usual and followed the boardwalk through the magnificent Ballroom Forest. This cool temperate rainforest had a lime-green forest floor that carpeted with moss, and ancient myrtle-beech trees festooned in fungi. These myrtle-beeches were part of the distinctive suite of plants that evolved on the supercontinent of Gondwana. Today the species finds its stronghold in Tasmania.

• Duration: 2 hours return (5.7km one way)
• Grade: Easy
• Starts:  At Dove Lake carpark

3. Enchanted stroll

This is a short, easy wak in the area around Peppers Cradle Mountain Lodge, through the temperate forest, along the Pencil Pine River. Despite its proximity to civilization, it’s preserved in its natural state – quiet and obscure. Covered by the trees’ canopy, we walked in the cool, mountain air to the sound of flowing water in the background. The moss-covered myrtle tree branches stretched out like dragons’ claws while eucalyptus trees poked through the canopy towards the sky. Besides wombat burrows, we also saw several Tasmanian pademelon hopping all over the forest.

• Duration: 20 Minutes (1km)
• Grade: Easy
• Starts: Peppers Cradle Lodge (circular track)

4. Waterfalls Walk

Just across the road from the lodge is the waterfalls trail that connects several waterfalls and makes for an excellent walk especially in summer. While we visited in winter and didn’t get to jump in for a dip, we did experience the spray of the water and the rumble of the falls. The boardwalk brought us through the ancient temperate forest, snaking alongside the Pencil Pine River again, before winding its way to Knyvet Falls, a small cascade of brackish water perched on a cliff’s edge. Then we headed the other direction and found ourselves at Pencil Pine Falls, a more spectacular falls cascading off a slope.

• Duration: 30-40 minutes (1.5km)
• Grade: Easy
• Starts: Opposite the Lodge Shop

Disclaimer: Our trip was made possible by Tourism Tasmania, but all opinions expressed above are our own.

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At the Alice Springs Reptile Center, we learned about all the various kinds of lizards in Central Australia, from the aptly named thorny devil to the largest reptile in Australia, the perentie. These reptiles are nothing short of bizarre and extraordinary – some featuring sharp spikes on their head, while others dangle flappy beards from their chins. The smallest reptile in at the center measured at just 2 inches long, and the largest at 79 inches. We even got the chance to get up close and personal to several of its inhabitants, including the resident goanna that was roaming freely in the grounds of the reptile centre.

To give you a look at what sort of reptiles hides beneath the sand of the Red Center, here’s a photographic introduction.

Thorny Devil

Featuring real thorns all over its body, the thorny devil (also known as thorny dragon) is definitely the most peculiar reptile species we’ve seen. It has a unique way of defending itself: with a spiny “false head” on the back of its neck, the lizard presents it to potential predators instead of its real head. Its conical spines are usually colored in camouflaging shades of desert browns and tans. 

Bearded Dragon

The bearded dragon may look rather fierce, but it’s actually very shy. When threatened, it usually displays a spectacular defensive stance by opening its mouth fully, extending its ‘beard’ backwards and expanding its ribs. This type of lizard usually lives in the arid, rocky, semidesert regions and dry open woodlands.

Perentie

The Perentie is Australia’s largest reptile, with reliable records of this species growing up to two meters in total length. As a member of the monitor (or goanna) family, it is strictly carnivorous, feeding on insects and other reptiles. It is regarded by the indigenous Aboriginal culture as sacred, and many are depicted in Aboriginal art and stories such as ‘How the Perentie and Goanna got their Colours’. We actually spotted one in the wild, roaming freely around Uluru. It had a massive tail and a long tongue to accompany it.

Common Green Tree Frog

Australia’s green tree frog is the most common frog species, though it’s largest than most Australian frogs (reaching around 4 inches in length). Despite its name, it changes color from olive green to bright green to brown. Not at all timid, it’s often found living with humans in showers and toilets. The green tree frog screams when it’s in danger to scare off its foe; and it squeaks when it is touched.

Gidgee Skink

Spotting rough, spiny scales, the gidgee skink is unlike other skinks due to its outstanding defence system. First it moves into narrow crevies or tree splits and inflates its body with air. This allows its spiny scales to act like little hooks, preventing it from being pulled from its predator.

Blue-Tongued Skink

As its name implies, this lizard has a prominent blue tongue that is usually bared as a bluff-warning to potential enemies. A pity the picture doesn’t show its tongue. It’s a diurnal, ground-foraging omnivore, feeding on a wide variety of insects, gastropods, flowers, fruits and berries.

Disclaimer: Thanks to Tourism Northern Territory for making this trip possible! While the trip was sponsored, all opinions expresses above are our own.

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This is Heron Island, a coral cay located in the southern Great Barrier Reef. It’s one of the 14 islands that make up the Capriconia Cays National Park, an area of significant biodiversity. Fringing the massive Heron Reef, the cay and the water around it support around 900 of the 1,500 marine animals and 72% of the coral species found on the Great Barrier Reef. Thanks to a combination of its geography, climate and strict conservation rules, we’re surrounded by abundant wildlife — both on land and underwater.

Through all but a few months, Heron Island is a breeding and nesting sanctuary for a variety of birds, including the Black Noddy Terns and the Wedgetailed Shearwaters. The cay is also a significant nesting location for two vulnerable turtle species, the Green Turtle and Loggerhead Turtle;the day we left the island we heard that two turtles had come up to shore to lay eggs just the night before – a pity we had missed the spectacle. Every June, whales also pass by Heron Island on their annual pilgrimage. It truly is a playground for all types of animals.

Island Life

Heron Island is just 72km from the mainland in Queensland, Australia but we might as well be in the middle of the ocean. Surrounded by sparkling, pristine water, the island feels untouched – thanks to the protection by the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority. There is no fishing nor collecting shells on the island; there are also very strict guidelines on snorkeling and diving as well as turtle watching. The island resort takes the eco-consciousness very seriously – they run their own power generator, potable water producing and treating wastewater, and has also been awarded an Advanced Eco-Certification by Ecotourism Australia.

Besides being eco-friendly, the resort ensures that its rooms are television-free, with no mobile phone reception – its goal is to bring guests “back to nature”. Alberto and I were more than happy to kick back, be unplugged, and enjoy some time off work. We couldn’t have asked for a better setting: Every morning we awoke to a spectacular view of the sea and the gentle sound of the lapping waves, then we spent our afternoons going on educational walks or snorkeling off the island. The island is small enough to walk around in 20 minutes, yet it has everything we could wish for: a restaurant with excellent meals, a swimming pool and lecture rooms for evening presentations.

Most importantly, Heron Island is not just any Great Barrier Reef resort – it’s a resort on the Great Barrier Reef. Reefs literally surround the island and stretch for miles beyond the distance. We loved snorkeling right off the beach in front of our room, swimming amongst dozens of manta rays, black-tipped sharks, and tornadoes of barracudas. We also went scuba-diving and even went on a reef walk during low tide. As our guide Amanda Ford said, “There are few places in the world where you can literally walk on the reef.”  And we were the lucky few to have experienced walking the Great Barrier Reef (more stories on that later..).

An Open Air Classroom

But Heron Island is a lot more than just a resort – it’s an outdoor classroom that offers a crash course in nature. We went on a bird walk where the naturalists pointed out the birds that inhabit the island and interesting facts about them; we visited the research station – the biggest in the Great Barrier Reef; and we went for a talk on sharks and learned so much about this intriguing creature. There was so much to learn and do on Heron Island, we barely scraped the surface. We will be sharing more stories from island, but now, we’ll be dreaming about our time back in paradise…

Details:

How to get there: The Heron Islander provides transfer from Gladstone to Heron Island and the journey take two hours. A one-way ticket on the boat costs AU$99.50. Alternatively, there are helicopter transfers for AU$370 each way.

Prices: Room rates start from AU$398 per night for twin sharing; there are also diving packages and spa packages. Check this page for more details.

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From the Jurassic dolerite seacliffs of the Tasman Peninsula to the world-famous Cradle Mountain, we traversed the island from the northeast to the southwest, covering as much of the island as we could in a week. For an island of this size, it sure packs a lot in – mountains, beaches, and all sorts of vegetation.  To share with you the sheer beauty of this island, here are some photos Alberto shot over the past week. Enjoy!

The dramatic landscapes of Cradle Mountain – with Lake Lilla in the foreground and Lake Dove at the back

Walking through the wet temperate forest surrounding the Waterfalls Trail in Cradle Mountain National Park

Mount Roland rises from the bright green prairies of Central Tasmania

Islands and lighthouses dot the World Heritage Site surrounding Gordon River

Water flows in the form of gushing rapids through the forests in Cradle Mountain NP

A beautifully colored leaf found in the Heritage Landing, Gordon River

That’s us shivering in Cradle Mountain – Lake St Claire National Park, after it had snowed the previous night

The rugged Cataract Gorge – in the heart of Launceston

A Tasmanian Devil runs around like a busy chipmunk in Cradle Mountain

A colony of Australian fur seals reside on Tasman Island – and the voyage there wa cold and treacherous, yet well worth it

Off the Tasman Peninsula, we spotted the fluke of a whale

A peacock flamboyantly shows off her feathers at Cataract Gorge

A cute Tasmanian pademelon lingers close to our cabin at Cradle Mountain

Disclaimer: Our trip was made possible by Tourism Tasmania, but all opinions expressed above are our own.

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