Onboard our sailboat, we let our bodies sway to the movement of the waves and the sound of the gentle breeze. Watching the port of Palamós slowly disappear before us, we listen intently as Captain Joan shares  stories from the past, “This boat was built in the colonial days. It’s since been used by many people, including pirates.” Our eyes light up at the mention of the word ‘pirates’ – it is after all every child’s fantasy to be on a pirate ship.

We are onboard el Rafael, a traditional catboat built in 1915. Now owned by Tela Marinera, el Rafael serves as a reminder of Costa Brava’s maritime heritage. Captain Joan brings visitors out on day trips and organizes pirate-themed boat trips for children.

Cruising along the rugged coastline of Eastern Spain, also known as Costa Brava, we catch glimpses of secluded coves, craggy cliffs and isolated lighthouses – many of which are only accessible by boat.

Captain Joan tells us that it’s common to see dolphins and even whales (during season) in the area. But instead,  we spot a curious moonfish swimming alongside our boat, waving its fins as though to say hello.

Bountiful Nature

 “Most parts of the rugged coastline are nature reserves, protected by the government from commercial development,” says Captain Joan. It’s no wonder the shoreline manages to retain a tinge of raw wilderness that is lost in other coastal areas of Spain.

After sailing past a myriad of landscapes, we reach our destination for the day: Cala dels Lliris. The tranquil bay spots turquoise waters, white powdery sand charming little white houses perched on the seafront. There must be less than twenty people on the beach – a rarity considering it’s nearing summer here in Spain.

Fishermen’s Feast

Lunch on Cala dels Lliris is a serious affair: an enormous feast prepared by the chefs of La Cuina de L’Empordanet in a 100-year-old fishermen’s hut. Our lunch table is laid out with colorful local cuisine -  platters of butifarra (Catalonian sausages), pan con tomate (tomato toasts) and escalibada (cold dish made up of capsicum, aubergine and pepper).

But the main star of the meal is yet to make an appearance. In the makeshift kitchen before us, the two master chefs, Kim Farraron and Toni Izquierda, prepare to make a sizzling entrance with some gambas de Palamós. The local speciality – prawns from Palamós – is prepared within seconds as Kim gives the red wriggly prawns a quick fry in the hot pan and Voila!

Toni then proceeds to show us how to eat the prawns – first, peel the shells, then suck the head – the head??! “ It’s the best part of the prawn – nutritious and really savory,” Toni tells us. I cringe a little before sticking my tongue down the prawn’s head and surprisingly, Toni’s right. I might just start eating prawns this way from now on…

Kim and Toni belong to a group of professional caterers called La Cuina de L’Empordanet who have been working for years to promote the cuisine of this small county called Baix Empordà. The Empordà is the centre of Catalan cuisine and has a wide, important gastronomic offer, with restaurants of great prestige in the area. It was formed in 1995, with collaboration from sixteen restaurants in the Baix Empordà region.

Traditional Havanera Music

By the end of our meal, it’s time for the local group of Havaneres to make an appearance. The L’Empordanet havaneres group croons us with a collection of traditional music – from light-hearted songs of the past to sentimental romantic ballads.

The lead singer tells me the origins of the havanera music, “The havanera music was created when the Spanish conquerors came back from Cuba, thus bringing back a tinge of Cuban musical  influence with them. The cork industry was thriving then, so it was common for workers to relax, sing and drink a bit of cremat liquor.”

We end the day with a Catalan song, swaying our bodies to the infectious tune. When we boarded the sailboat earlier that day, I had no idea our day would turn out like this – another pleasant surprise that Costa Brava has sprung on me. 

This experience was made possible by Costa Brava Tourism Board and Tourism Spain but all opinions are my own. Read more about my travels in Costa Brava here.

Early this week, I found myself in one of my favorite cities in Spain, Girona, to witness the annual flower festival in is full glory. From 7 to 15 May 2011, the city of Girona will be splashed in rainbow colors as flowers take over its streets and plazas. Temps de Flors started decades ago as a flower display competition, but today it has blossomed into one of the most important festivals of the city. There are over 110 flower displays scattered all over the city: in the main monuments, small squares and even private homes opened to the public for visits.

Sant Marti Church

Earlier that day, our tour started at the Sant Marti Church,perched on the higher grounds of the historical centre. On the steps leading to the church were a stack of brick-game blocks made out of flowers – an interesting play of colors and theme against the grey backdrop of the religious building. Inside the church, the use of fragrant lilies and silk created quite a dreamy wedding atmosphere.

As we weaved through the cobblestoned alleys of the historical centre, we would often drop in to private houses that wowed us away with the artistic displays of flowers. In a particular house, there were fiber-lit lamps hanging from the ceiling in one room and a twirling flower bed that dazzled visitors with its kaleidoscopic colors.

Girona Cathedral

We wound our way to the heart of the city: the Catedral de Girona. Along the steps of the Santa Maria Catedral, a broken piano stood mid-way between a patch of green grass and another patch of colorful flowers. Our guide, long-term Girona resident Carlos Pongiluppi shared with us, “It’s in relation to the requiem. The flowers represent life, while the broken piano signifies death. Beyond the piano, there are no more flowers, meaning the loss of life.”

Arabic Bath

The main highlight of the flower festival for me was the Arabic Bath – within the dome-shaped interior, wispy vines and crawling flowers weave together creating a rather Eden-like atmosphere. In its backyard, I found bright orange butterflies (fans used to give the impression of butterflies) and beautiful orchids on display.

If you’re in Girona during this time of the year, be sure to catch the flower festival. For more information, check out the Temps de Flors website where you can download the program and itinerary.

This experience was made possible by Costa Brava Tourism Board and Tourism Spain but all opinions are my own. Read more about my travels in Costa Brava here or follow me on Twitter with the #InCostaBrava hashtag.

For mountaineering enthusiasts and alpine experts, El Berguedà is a perfectly sculpted mountainous region where adventure and tranquility go hand in hand. Just 1 and a half hours away from Barcelona, El Berguedà is the quieter alternative to the Pyrenees – no traffic or crowds, just the rolling mountains and misty horizons ahead. Look further and you could even catch a glimpse of Andorra in the distance. On Day Three of our Catalunya Experience, we meandered through the winding roads for some taste of adventure.

Trekking through Rasos de Peguera

Looming at 1,800m above sea level, Rasos de Peguera smells of fresh pine and mountain air. Getting to the peak is a journey on its own, as we meander through winding paths and itching our way higher and higher into the mountains. The town of Berga stands right at the foot of the mountains, offering affordable accommodation for hikers.

What used to be the first ski station in Catalonia is now a nature lover’s refuge, teeming with thick pine woods and trekking trails. In summer, families gather for a picnic out under the sun and a pleasant hike in the woods.

In winter, the mountains put on a different look, blanketed by white powdery snow. Families come to sled down the gentle slopes while mountaineers trek through the challenging terrains and spend the night in the shelters (refugios) scattered through the park.

Expect to have the place to yourself and don’t forget to stop to catch the stunning view at this altitude! Hikes are pleasant thanks to good weather conditions (temperatures don’t usually get lower than –9degC).

Altitude Extreme organizes trekking trips through Rasos de Peguera as well as other routes in the region. Treks vary in difficulty level ranging from basic to experts. From a short 2km hike to multi-day hikes including camping are available depending on your request. Guides are extremely skilled and knowledgeable in mountaineering and fluent in Spanish and French. For those on a budget, visit SnowTrex for cheap ski holidays.

Quadbiking in Berga

In the evening, we bid the mountains adios and headed down the slopes to the town of Berga for some fun on quads. Definitely the highlight of the trip for me, quadbiking is an awesome activity for travelers looking for some wild time. Riding through the rural fields of Berga, we climbed gentle slopes, rode through the town and got to see the area in an unconventional way.

            Photo by Aaron and Georgie of Happytimeblog

Quadbiking isn’t exactly dangerous as long as you follow the rules of the instructor. With a stable structure and heavy weight, quadbikes are generally safe and easy to ride. My experience riding it was hilarious though, as I almost rode the entire quadbike up a slope, a result of not manouvering it properly. While me and Karen (from Europe a la carte blog) were dangling mid-air (ok I’m exaggerating) wandering how to prevent ourselves from topplng over, Aaron and Georgie came to our rescue! The instructor didn’t trust me to ride afterwards – but yeh I was bent on proving him wrong!

             Photo by Aaron and Georgie of Happytimeblog

Here’s a video shot by Abigail from Inside the Travel Lab, as we make our way through the town. That’s me riding ahead with Karen behind.

Indomit Centre d’Aventura organizes 2-hour quadbiking trips through the rural areas of Berga. An experienced instructor will join the ride to ensure safety and give any necessary instructions along the way. Safety helmet, gloves and goggles are included. You can also try out archery and paintball here.

——————————————————————————————————————————————-————————–

Look out for updates from my fellow bloggers or check on Twitter under the hashtag (#catexp).

Disclosure: This press trip was sponsored by the Catalunya Tourist Board as part of ‘Blogtrip 2009 – The Catalunya Experience’.

——————————————————————————————————————————————-————————–

Related Posts:

• Catalan Culinary Education
• Photoblog: Winter in Barcelona
• The Catalunya Experience
• Andalusia’s Mountainous Towns in Las Alpujarras
• Teaching English in Spain

Food, food, food – Catalonia is all about food. Of course there are also fabulous beaches, Gaudi art and the Pyrenees mountain range. But mostly, it’s about food. As one of Spain’s best known gastronomic province, Catalonia is home to the country’s best chefs  and exclusive Michelin-rated restaurants. We set out on Day Two of our Catalunya Experience to dig deeper into Catalan gastronomy.

La Boquería Market

To begin our culinary education, chef-turned-cooking instructor Teresa Ríos from Cook and Taste guided us through Barcelona’s major food market, La Boquería. Weaving through the labyrinth of multi-hued fruit stalls, jamon butchers and seafood stands, Teresa introduced us to the region’s unique food culture bit by bit.

Jamón, the holy grail of Spanish culinary world, is particularly worshipped by the Catalans. Why do they love it so much? The Catalans explain, ‘it’s in our blood.’

The entire process of producing the perfect Spanish ham is tedious -  starting from the breeding of the pig, it has to immaculate.

From pata negra to jabugo, these top-notch species of jamón can be found in the market. In our culinary class, Teresa lets us taste different varieties of jamón, and explains the differences.

Seafood is the Spaniards’ Christmas delicacy – unlike many other European countries, Spanish families cook a big feast of prawns, crayfish and shellfish on the 24th December. Percebes (pictured above right) and lobsters (above left) are often on the X’mas menu.

Although seafood is better known in Galicia (Northern Spain) for the freshest products, Catalunya has its own distinctive way of preparing them.

Take the bacalao (cod fish) for example, a popular Catalan dish is the Esqueixada de Bacallà (Cod fish salad).

Preserved cod fish is marinated with olive oil and vinegar and mixed with fresh leafy greens to  get a refreshing fish salad.

Calçot (pictured above left) is a specialty in the Catalunya region, with the activity of calçotada (a group of friends getting together to eat calçots) extremely popular among the Catalans. They are typically grilled over a fire and dipped in nutty tomato sauce, called romescu.  Calçotada festivals are even held in towns throughout Catalonia from late November through March.

Trufas (above right) are another exorbitant food item that form an essential part of Catalan gastronomy. As a special type of mushroom that is also a root plant, picking trufas is especially difficult. That perhaps explains the extravagant prices that often come with it. At the market, we spotted some trufas that cost 4000euros per kilogram!

Cook and Taste

After scouring La Boquería for the freshest ingredients in town, we crossed over to the nearby Cook and Taste school where we would be learning the ropes from Teresa.

We were handled the recipes of the dishes we would be making – the first dish pumpkin soup, main course fideau and crema catalana for dessert.

Each dish was prepared by ourselves, with step-by-step guidance from Teresa. We all took turns to get involved and get down and dirty. The experience turned out to be surprisingly fun, practical and insightful.

The results of our labour: A thick lathery sweet yet savory pumpkin soup, often enjoyed by the Catalans in winter; a stirred-till-soft fideua (noodle paella) punctuated with bits of tomato, cuttle fish and cockles and the zingy crema catalana torched to crisp sweetness – a dessert representative of the region.

About the Chef

Teresa, after working as a professional chef for over 20 years,  found her passion in teaching people the art of cooking. A brilliant teacher and knowledgeable culinary expert, she tells me,

‘What I like about my job, is being involved with people. When they like what they enjoy what they’re eating and cooking, I can see the smiles from their faces.’

Cook and Taste organizes culinary experiences for companies, students and tourists who are keen on taking a peek into Catalan’s gustatory world.

——————————————————————————————————————————————-————————–

Follow my journey through Catalonia as I bring you more of my adventures in the coming posts. Look out for updates from my fellow bloggers or check on Twitter under the hashtag (#catexp).

Disclosure: This press trip was sponsored by the Catalunya Tourist Board as part of their ‘Blogtrip 2009 – The Catalunya Experience’.

——————————————————————————————————————————————-————————–

Related Posts:

• Photoblog: Winter in Barcelona
• The Catalunya Experience
• Andalusia’s Mountainous Towns in Las Alpujarras
• Teaching English in Spain
• Our Second Home – Granada, Spain