Now that we’re starting our new lives in Granada, Southern Spain, we’ve been spending our weekends exploring the surroundings, uncovering Andalusia bit by bit.
Edged on the mountainous slopes of the Sierra Nevada mountain range in Andalusia, the Alpujarras smells of nature and country life.
The Alpujarras is made up of fifty-odd beautiful white-washed towns, with some belonging to Granada while others stretch over to Almeria. Each village has its own characteristic traits and specialty.
Alberto’s family has a vacation home in Capileria, one of the smaller mountaintop villages just 1 hour’s drive from the city. An absolutely charming little abode, we used it as a base to seek out nearby villages.
Lanjarón
As the biggest town in the Alpujarras, Lanjarón is the gateway to Sierra Nevada and is reputed for its natural spring water. Many come to see the natural springs and taste the healing waters of Lanjarón.
Famous for its spa water and attractive white-washed architecture, Lanjarón draws in the most crowd compared to other villages. The Balneario Health Resort provides baths, massages, hydrotherapy, saunas and mud baths.
You can also find the Alpujarras Tourism Office here.
Pampaneira
As we climbed further up along the mountain range, we arrived at the Poqueira Valley, where the most picturesque trio stand: : Capileira, Bubión and Pampaneira. If you make it to the Alpujarras, don’t leave without visiting these three villages.
Pampaneira is the first village we encountered, lying at the bottom of the valley. Bustling with colorful crafts shops and tavern-style restaurants, it’s the busiest of the three. It’s an excellent stop to check out traditional Alpujarreño products like ceramics, woven carpets and leather goods.
We treated ourselves to a platter of migas, a specialty in this part of Spain. Crisp bread crumbs fried to an aromatic mold with splatters of chorizo, green pepper and pork fats.
Bubión and Capileira
Bubión is slightly further up the slope, with its massive square church tower standing on a plaza of rough paving stones. Walking along the main road through the village, you’ll be treated to panoramic views of the valley and surrounding villages.
To see the authentic Alpujarras, head to Capileira at the top of the valley – the name is an Arabic derivation of the Latin word for head or top. You’ll find yourself wandering through steep cobblestoned paths, past villager’s gates and below overhanging flowers and dried peppers. Visit the Museum of Alpujarreño Artisan for a deeper look into their culture.
Pitres
After passing the village of Orgiva, the capital of the region, we reached Pitres, home to several rustic bed and breakfasts including La Oveja Verde with a country-style charm and unobstructed vistas.
Here, slopes climb steeply, leading to overhanging terraces and bright red hibiscus crawling up its vines.
The town revolves around its main square, slightly elevated to give an unrivalled view of the mountainous region. At Restaurante Carretera, we tucked into a filling meal – the Plato Alpujarreño consisting of jamon serano (Spanish ham), chorizo and morcilla (blood sausage), topped with fried eggs.
Where to stay: Casa Rural
In these towns, you’ll be better off staying at casa rurales, rustic country-style houses decorated with bohemian touches and located in the campo (fields).
Alberto’s family vacation house just 3 minutes from Pitres is one such characteristic hut. A grand chimney, ceramic flooring, and a balcony that is perfect for star-gazing by night.
Check out La Oveja Verde for affordable apartments with a great view.
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The food looks amazing, not to mention the scenery. Looks funny with the baths out in the open!
Love this blog and I hope to read much more in the coming days. I'm saving all I can to be able to move to Andalucia in four years.The first time I was there it felt like coming home.
hey Judy thanks for stopping by. I know how it feels to be saving hard just to make that big move – Andalusia is home now but it was hard work moving my life here. Glad you're working hard on it, see u here soon!
The food, scenery, landscape and architecture look really fantastic. I love these small places that have so much history and original authenticity. My next trip to Spain will definitely feature Las Alpujarras!
Thanks for dropping by. The Alpujarras is definitely one of most underlooked places in Spain – and it shows the authentic side to rural Spain, come see it for yourself the nxt time you’re here!
Maybe its the beautiful white zinc houses or the uneven terrains, everything seems so picture perfect. And the health resort looks so divine and befitting for a king.
Nellie, your travelblog is like a revelation for me. I got to know of your blog when I was watching Najip Ali's latest episode on food & travel show in Spain. I am planning for my honeymoon in Dec this year. I will travel around Andalusia region in a week or so. As an avid motorcyclist, I plan to rent a bike to ride around Andalusia with stopovers at Granda, Cordoba, Seville & Rhonda. So far, nothing concrete yet. I have read about the Alpujarras. But after reading this blog, I might include a night stay there. But well, time & moola may not be on my side. =( So i have to plan properly without missing much of Andalusia. Thanks Nellie for all having this travelblog up! Would love to meet you when we visit Granada in Dec. Keep on writing!
P/S: Great to see a fella Singaporean enjoying life in Andalusia.